I took a break from trying to figure out Moorish Rose to make a couple bracelets for family and play with Rubber rings (the white is rubber and just stretchy enough to not need a clasp)
The Chainmaille thread
- Thread starter Coppercloud
- Start date
So I ended up giving up on moorish rose while it looks amazing I just couldn't get it to work.
Ended up using Japanese 12 in 2 for the shell/head, full Persian for around the shell, and then scale for the flippers and tail. I think it turned out pretty well. Not 100% in love with the head (I think it looks goofy) but I can't think of a better way to make the head or how to fix it.
Ended up using Japanese 12 in 2 for the shell/head, full Persian for around the shell, and then scale for the flippers and tail. I think it turned out pretty well. Not 100% in love with the head (I think it looks goofy) but I can't think of a better way to make the head or how to fix it.
So need some guidelines / tips since I'm now venturing into attempting to make chainmaille earrings and having never had my ears pierced. How heavy is too heavy? I know it will vary by the person so I'm just looking for general idea.
Decided I didn't like the silver hooks so going to replace them with black once they get delivered
CarterNomad
Smack-Fu Master, in training
I normally do them when stuck on work meetings ;-)
If I had to guess probably like an hour or 2 for a pair. If I have the design in place I can do it with all the little rings closed which makes it much faster.
Okay back to posting with a question.
Is there any good "bundles" that aren't crazy expensive but provide a decent amount of colors (all in one size) or sizes (preferably all in one color). I want to make more things but it is like ~$30 for a single size/color from the places I normally buy and honestly I don't need a 1/2lb of links in every color / size I want.
Is there any good "bundles" that aren't crazy expensive but provide a decent amount of colors (all in one size) or sizes (preferably all in one color). I want to make more things but it is like ~$30 for a single size/color from the places I normally buy and honestly I don't need a 1/2lb of links in every color / size I want.
I know weave got maille has a few anodized bundles, but I think they're more like 3-color pallets than a rainbow starter assortment or anything. Honestly this is the hardest part of chainmaille for me as i'd say you're best off buying a few oz of 6 or 7 different colors but that isn't cheap and then what if you want to work with a new size? Well that's a whole new set.
Not saying nobody has what you're looking for, but I've never found it.
What sizing do people go with on rings? Looks like a decent amount of my stuff for bracelets was probably wound on a 3/16" rod and was originally 16 or 18 AWG copper and galvanized steel. The smaller stuff is definitely a little weak and the diagonal cutter pointed ends results in random link slippage.
Related, thoughts on using lead-free solder on copper links to handle their propensity to bend free?
Related, thoughts on using lead-free solder on copper links to handle their propensity to bend free?
Most of my rings are 16SWG 5/6" through I do have some smaller 18SWG 3/16" ones (someone got me a "kit" for xmas)
I haven't moved into making my own rings (I've looked up how) mainly cause I would want all the colors and that just expounds the cost.
Cyber/<ender
Smack-Fu Master, in training
Depends on what you want to make. A hauberk? Look at 14ga 5/16"ID. A ring? I did mine in 22ga 1/8"ID. If you're expanding your weave knowledge beyond Euro4in1, then you're going to have to start considering aspect ratios. Quite a few weaves require something specific to work. Dragonscale, for instance, as the smaller rings must fit within the larger ring joins. Or the various Persian weaves just look bad with too loose ARs.
As for the cut ends, unless you want to set yourself up a slitting saw deal, then score'n'break will give you the cleanest ends. (That's when you use a good set of cutters like the Knipex CoBolts, and cut just a bit into each ring, then twist the ring until it breaks off the coil.) It's a good bit of extra work, tho.
Thanks for the input. Definitely still at the 4-in-1 life and not planning anything exotic, just considering what suggestions are. I got these links as pre-wound coils to be cut many, many years ago, so I might have the numbers wrong, but the calipers say I'm close.
I misjudged what sized rings I wanted last time I actually got around to ordering any (slightly fewer years ago), so I've got a selection of rings that are more of clothing sized than coarse jewelry sized.
Good to have some hints on cutting rings, but I probably won't be devoting myself to making more in the near future. Will help if I look at cut finishes for commercial rings.
I misjudged what sized rings I wanted last time I actually got around to ordering any (slightly fewer years ago), so I've got a selection of rings that are more of clothing sized than coarse jewelry sized.
Good to have some hints on cutting rings, but I probably won't be devoting myself to making more in the near future. Will help if I look at cut finishes for commercial rings.
Tl;Dr - for just beginner stuff I recommend an AR of about 5. If your links have issues staying closed you have a very soft or thin material.
As mentioned above aspect ratio is going to matter any time you're discussing size. I have a whole variety of 18 and 20 gauge (SWG, I usually order from TRL which is Canadian) rings in different sizes and colors for jewelry and such. When you want a variety of colors in two different gauges in ARs (say from around 4 to 7) you can end up with dozens of unique ring size and color combinations and it can get spendy to just have stuff on hand! Which is why usually people are buying rings for specific projects, but then you're paying lots of shipping. Jewelry stuff is piddly that way.
When I want to do something with more of an "armor" look I'm using a lot of 16 SWG without colors. I keep 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" 16SWG (AR is ~4, 5, and 6, though I'm on my phone and too lazy to do more accurate conversions or find a better chart) on hand in steel and aluminum as I use these regularly and they make a lot of nice weaves like euro 4in1, Byzantine, dragon scale, helm, captive inverted round, persian 3in1 or Persian 6 in 1. These are all very doable weaves I'd recommend for anyone just wanting to play around with weaves as they introduce different concepts like unusual symmetry, multiple ring sizes, captive rings, weaves vs chains, etc and are pretty attainable with a little focus (though captive inverted round or it's cousin worm bore can be a real pain to start).
All things considered the higher AR the "looser" the weave and the faster, less dense, and more flexible it will be, but more advanced weaves have very specific requirements of the AR. I really like the eay 1/4" 16 SWG looks, but I more often use 5/16" as it's just a little faster. As such id recommend shooting for an AR of 5 untill you have enough experience or a reason to change that.
Over the weekend I made myself a new fidgit / paper weight. It is a 5x5x5 jelly cube.
Been awhile since I made a jelly cube so took a bit to get started (I had made my kids 3x3x3 ones when I first started doing chainmail)
I don't think I'd make another one that large since it takes a ton of links (over 1000 total) and with no real use for it.
Been awhile since I made a jelly cube so took a bit to get started (I had made my kids 3x3x3 ones when I first started doing chainmail)
I don't think I'd make another one that large since it takes a ton of links (over 1000 total) and with no real use for it.
Attachments
Bit of a tangent, stick with me. Im a drummer. Drums frequently just make noise too long and need muffling to deaden their long resonance. Frequent solutions include plastic rings you put in the outside perimeter of the head, adding duct tape to the heads, or using a product called "moon gel" which is kind of like those sticky hands toys, just sold in nice little rectangles. I was watching a YouTube video of a guy who said most of those are bad ideas because they affect the drum from the moment you strike the head, not just the trailing sound, and that affects the most important part of the tone: the impact.
So what he does is leave a heavy but somewhat flexible object on the head of his drums. I can't remember what it was but maybe a set of a bunch of keys, or something? Anyway his point was that the moment you strike the head the object bounces off and the head can ring freely giving you a true sound of the immediate impact followed by a very quick muffling. This is better for a snare drum where you want that sharp snap and nothing else, as opposed to toms. I've always felt like making something like you just did and slapping it on my snare would be a good idea.
That said I play mostly an electronic kit these days so it's a moot point for me.
My interest in mail is mainly to get dressed up shiny so I can hit my friends with weapons in a vaguely historical manner. Butted mail will shred if you look at it in those circumstances, let alone strike it with a rebated sword. All my mail is riveted 4 in 1, I cheated a lot by buying the rings and rivets from India, along with sheets of mail. I’ve made four mail shirts in my time, two butted and two riveted. Tailoring mail so it fits nicely is surprisingly hard, it’s always the bloody armpits that do my head it.
Piccy of me reworking the mail what goes on the bottom of my helmet (aka aventail or camail). Rivet setter in the back left.
Has anyone ever made a smartwatch band? I'm thinking of attempting it (assuming I can find a connector)
I have an idea for the weave but I'd have to buy some more rubber links (I only have white currently) because I'd want it to be stretchy enough that I could just slip it on/off when needed.
I have an idea for the weave but I'd have to buy some more rubber links (I only have white currently) because I'd want it to be stretchy enough that I could just slip it on/off when needed.
Does anyone have any experience making their own jump rings?
I've been looking at it recently and I believe I can get everything needed for most IDs for ~50$ including a jewelry saw. Then it looks like you can buy "bundles" of aluminum wire in various colors / gauges on amazon for like 20$ (25 colors 10 meters each).
My main stopping point before was having to color the wires and not wanting to set up that step. But since it seems you can buy wire pre-colored I think it would save money in the long run. But then I get back to the point of what am I trying to make with chainmail since the wife doesn't like bracelets/necklaces and is still wearing studs from having her ears re-pierced after kids (they liked to grab them).
I guess I'm just trying to convince myself to bite the bullet and spend the initial $$
I've been looking at it recently and I believe I can get everything needed for most IDs for ~50$ including a jewelry saw. Then it looks like you can buy "bundles" of aluminum wire in various colors / gauges on amazon for like 20$ (25 colors 10 meters each).
My main stopping point before was having to color the wires and not wanting to set up that step. But since it seems you can buy wire pre-colored I think it would save money in the long run. But then I get back to the point of what am I trying to make with chainmail since the wife doesn't like bracelets/necklaces and is still wearing studs from having her ears re-pierced after kids (they liked to grab them).
I guess I'm just trying to convince myself to bite the bullet and spend the initial $$
Cyber/<ender
Smack-Fu Master, in training
Making rings is easy. Well, depending on how you want to cut them. You get a mandrill, (Steel rods of a variety of sizes are available at home center stores.),of the ID you want to shoot for, (Account for spring-back.), and coil your wire tightly around the mandrill to form a spring. Then, cut the rings off the spring. You can get fancy by making a power coiling jig with a hand drill, but be careful, as you can create a nasty metal whip this way and do some real damage. A jig where you don't need your hands on the wire would be best.
The part where it can become expensive is how you cut the rings. On the easy/cheap end, you can cut them with aviation snips, which leaves ends like //. You can cut with a set of bolt cutters/diagonal wire cutters, but that leaves ends like ><. In harder wire, you can use the score'n'break method, where you use something like the Knipex CoBolts, (An excellent tool.), and cut just a bit into each ring, before twisting it to break it off. This will leave ends kind of like this:
\ /
| |
/ \
But if you want perfect, flat ends, then you're going to need to cut them with a saw. With softer metals, you can cut them by hand with a jeweler's hand saw, but it's not quick and takes some practice to be consistent. For mass production/harder materials, you're going to need to look at something like The Ringinator.
Or, you can bypass the whole situation and buy pre-cut rings from The Ring Lord...
The part where it can become expensive is how you cut the rings. On the easy/cheap end, you can cut them with aviation snips, which leaves ends like //. You can cut with a set of bolt cutters/diagonal wire cutters, but that leaves ends like ><. In harder wire, you can use the score'n'break method, where you use something like the Knipex CoBolts, (An excellent tool.), and cut just a bit into each ring, before twisting it to break it off. This will leave ends kind of like this:
\ /
| |
/ \
But if you want perfect, flat ends, then you're going to need to cut them with a saw. With softer metals, you can cut them by hand with a jeweler's hand saw, but it's not quick and takes some practice to be consistent. For mass production/harder materials, you're going to need to look at something like The Ringinator.
Or, you can bypass the whole situation and buy pre-cut rings from The Ring Lord...
I know it has been months but the reason I'm looking into making them is I think once the initial outlay has been spent I should be able to make the rings at least as cheaply while still having more control over sizing. I find myself wanting to try more "complex" weaves that require multiple sizes which yes I could just buy them all from ring lord (or chainmail joe) but I'd need to buy a larger order than I might need at the time vs quickly making up a bunch to try out a weave
So I finally gave in after looking at various different options and bought a winder and jewelers saw. I also bought 25 rolls of 18g Aluminum wire as well but of course those haven't been delivered yet.
They should be here this weekend and then I can figure out what I want to make. Decided to go for the pre-colored wire so I don't need to start a whole other hobby for coloring them. I will most likely need to figure out some type of cutting jig but I have some scrap wood and a decent idea of what it should be (I think). I'll post some pics once I get it figured out.
They should be here this weekend and then I can figure out what I want to make. Decided to go for the pre-colored wire so I don't need to start a whole other hobby for coloring them. I will most likely need to figure out some type of cutting jig but I have some scrap wood and a decent idea of what it should be (I think). I'll post some pics once I get it figured out.
So I got this and I was right I need to figure out a jig. Between work and the damn snow we have been getting I haven't had a chance to figure that out.
I've cut a few "test" runs and yeah I need a jig to hold the coil in place while I cut. Hopefully can get something going this weekend.
Back when I made my own, I wound (I think it was 12 AWG) galvanized steel wire around a short ½ or ¾ inch metal tube (of the kind used to run electrical wire on the wall inside buildings). I eventually settled on winding 20 cm of wire, then partially sliding the coil of and cutting 15cm of rings, then using the remaining loops to help me continue the winding process.
I had plans to improve the jig, but this was around the time I finished HS so on one hand I lost interest after half a year or so of sporadic activity, and on the other I had very little spare money to dedicate to it so manual labor trumped more expensive tools.
I had plans to improve the jig, but this was around the time I finished HS so on one hand I lost interest after half a year or so of sporadic activity, and on the other I had very little spare money to dedicate to it so manual labor trumped more expensive tools.
yeah I've been running into an issue where the coil doesn't stay coiled when I attempt to cut them. I have some ideas on how to solve this issue but life has got in the way so I haven't had a chance to test it more.
Back when I used to wind galvanized (because I was poor, and learning) in high school, ya know, last millennium, I just drilled a hole cross-ways through my winding dowel and stuffed bit of wire through there to start the coil. It had some waste and a maximum coil length before needing to remove it from the dowel and start anew, but I have no idea how else it should be done.
I got metal winding dowels that have a hole in them so I can wind fine it is just when I go to cut it they don't stay coiled and I don't want to try cutting while still on the dowel since I don't want to damage the dowel. I've had some house projects taking priority so haven't had a chance to really play around but I have an idea how to "fix" the issue
Why not cut a small notch into one side of an end of the dowel that is a wider than a saw blade. Then slide the coil up to that end and saw through the coil into the notch to cut each ring off. Sliding the coil up as each ring pops off. You'd want to clamp the rod to a bench to help.
So I ended up buying a "cutting jig" that I'm hoping will work combined with a bench press to keep the coil together so I can cut it but house projects have prevented me trying.
Back in the day, again I was in high school, dumb, and didn't do this long, but back in the day I just loaded them onto a wood dowel and used a die grinder to cut so that the wheel could cut into the wood a little without bit being a problem and getting all the way through the metal rings.